Thursday, January 8, 2009

Kepler Track, and then up the Coast

After my last update, Jen and I set out on the Kepler Track, a 40 mile backpacking trip renowned for being one of New Zealand's "Great Walks". The track starts off right in Te Anau, and heads off into the mountains of Fiordland, reaching above the tree line into the alpine within the first day of hiking.

The Kepler was fun and rewarding, even though it rained for 3 of the 4 days that we were hiking on it. We even had a night of sustained winds over 100kph, or about 60mph. On our second day it rained more than 3 inches. It was a bummer that the views from the ridgelines and mountain tops of the track had been replaced with low level clouds, driving rain, and extremely limited visibility. However, that is the natural state of the landscape- it rains there, a lot. (As much as 30 feet a year in some areas of Fiordland.)

Jen and I are used to extreme weather, so it really wasn't that hard on us. We got cold and wet, but still had a great time on the hike.

A few interesting things about the Kepler Track and the great walks-
-I think that the whole "Great Walks" thing is a bit of a marketing ploy. As much as Jen and I loved the Kepler, it was definitely no "Greater" than the area we were in inside Mt. Aspiring National Park. In fact, I think we may have liked our little known corner of Mt. Aspiring a little bit better than the Kepler Track. We joked that we could do the same thing in the US- to create of series of "Great Walks" to drive the hoards away from the really good stuff. For instance, have you heard about the incredible new "Great Walk" recently constructed in scenic Nebraska? You gotta go! No, don't go to Colorado or Wyoming, you should really check out Nebraska!
-There is no two ways about it- in the middle of the high season (the southern summer), the great walks are crowded. There are 3 huts on the Kepler track, all capable of housing at least 50 people. You have to stay in the huts for the most part- there is no camping alowed on most of the track. (By the way, track and trail are synonimous in NZ) We spent each night inside large huts similar to the well known 10th Mountain Division backcountry huts back home, but much larger. It is a bit annoying trying to sleep with as many as 25 people to a bunk room. There is a lot of snoring and noise to put up with.

Alright, I'll say it. For Jen and I, who are used to roping around in the backcountry with at most a tent for accomadation our our 8 bunk Guine Mountain Hut in the Indian Peaks back home that we have been to countless times and never with more people than close friends, the great walks aren't quite our style, but I think we were both really glad to do it. We did get a day of great views, a few rainbows, lots of waterfalls and we got to see a lush rainforest and lots of unique bird species. In fact, I'll say it was a "great" experience, just a little bit different.

After finishing up the Kepler track Jen and I headed south to Invercargil, the southernmost city in New Zealand and then continued up the coast. We stoped for a night in the Catlins and again in Dunedin and on the coast between Duniden and Christchurch. Even though we only spent one night there, I think Jen and I are both fans of Dunedin. I think it may be my favorite city in New Zealand.

Last night was our last night together until Jen comes out to meet me in Phuket, Thailand for my birthday in March. It was really hard having to say goodbye. It sucks that Jen had to go back to school, but I'm sure it will be an excellent reunion in Thailand!

As for me, I'm off to look for work in the vineyard industry. I haven't decided if I'll head back south towards Wanaka or instead head north towards Picton. I hope to have all that figured out for my next update!

More photos here!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2350385&l=2f5da&id=10223429

2 comments:

Carol Schaum said...

I love your updates and especially like your idea about the Great Walks of Nebraska! I know Jen leaving was hard - hang in there. And hopefully you'll find some crazy temp job where you can dive into the local scenes some more.
Love you alot,
Mom

Anton Seim said...

Good update. Hope you're having a blast m'friend.