Friday, January 23, 2009

Back to Wanaka

Things in Roxburgh came to an end yesterday. There were too many people for the amount of work left- we had picked through most of the apricots. Our employer started laying people off in the reverse order of when everyone showed up. I was the 5th to last person, and 6 people got laid off.
.....

(Rant)
Things were also a bit complicated with the employer at the orchard too. He habitually short paid the workers, "forgetting" to include a days work here and there on many pay checks and then not taking any interest to correct the problem. He forgot to pay me twice, and then lied to me about a bonus he was going to give everyone after several days that everyone worked below minimum wage picking cherries. Everyone had a problem with this, and the law here clearly states that contract workers must be compensated at the at least the minimum wage rate no matter what, but no one had the guts to talk to the owner about it. I finally talked to the owner on behalf of everyone, coming to the agreement that a bonus would be paid. Unfortunately, only one person ever received a "bunus" and it only amounted to about 12 US dollars. To be honest, it was a crock of shit. I really have no respect for people that hire people and then don't pay them for the work that they do. I have even less respect for people who take no interest in fixing the problems with pay when they are apprised of them. Upon leaving I "forgot" to pay rent that I owed, even though it still didn't come close to making up for the money that I should have been paid.(End Rant)

.....
Normally one could expect it to be easy to just simply go to another of the dozens of orchards in the region and pick up work right away, but it is not this year. Apparently there are many more people looking for work right now than normal and there just aren't enough jobs to go around, especially right now as apricot season is nearing its end and nectarines, apples, and others have yet to start. Some people are saying that it is a result of the global recession- more people from Europe and areas around the Pacific coming to New Zealand for agricultural work as an alternative to post university education that may be impossible to come by back home.

I'm currenlty with Victor and Eric, the two Swedes from that I worked with in Roxburgh. We left this morning and looked for work all over Central Otago. After many phone calls and visits to different orchards we came up empty handed. We ended up deciding to try Wanaka, reasoning that if we couldn't find jobs at least we could go on an extended trip into Mt. Aspiring National Park.

We were very lucky to land jobs within about an hour of showing up. We'll be working for vineyards here starting on Monday, doing various jobs to help with the upkeep of the crops. I think I also landed a better paying labor job in Queenstown that should start as early as Tuesday doing some construction type work. I would even get paid to commute from Wanaka to Queenstown. Not bad!

Wanaka is indeed my favorite place in New Zealand and definitely one of my favorite places in the world so I'm happy to be here. It is a bummer that things at the orchard came to an abrupt end, but hopefully I will see several people from the orchard again in New Zealand or perhaps in one of our home countries. I'm sure there are good people to work with here too, and for now the adventure continues....

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Apricots!

A week ago I started a job fruit picking in Roxburgh in Central Otago. I’m saving up some more money before I head off to Thailand, Nepal, and India. I was a little bit apprehensive to start a fruit picking job because I’ve heard bad things about how much you can expect to get paid for the work, and that the working and living conditions aren’t that great. Of course, the one known positive that I knew of going in was that it was easy to get a job and that I could work for a month and then leave to continue traveling.

I must say though, that I do enjoy what I am doing. The picking crew is great- it is made up of people between the ages of 18 and 25 from various areas around the world including New Zealand, Czech Republic, Germany, Sweden, England, Scotland, Canada, and the US (I’m the only American). Everyone lives together In a small house and some of us sleep outside. The rent is also very cheap- only US$45 a month for me. Roxburgh is a small town defined by its fruit industry and most of the locals have grown up in the town.. Even so, they are not at all weary of outsiders and value the immigrant workers (including myself) as an important addition to the community. Around town and at the local pub I’m greeted with lots of “Hey buddy!” and “Hey mate!” from the locals in the town.

The work itself isn’t really that hard for what I am used to- we work normally from 7:30 to 3 or 4 with a one hour lunch break, spending the day climbing ladders to pick apricots and cherries. In a given day picking apricots on good trees I can easily make $130+. Cherries are another story, netting extremely small sums for the work that is put in. I have made it clear that I am in the fruit picking business for apricots though, so hopefully I will be picking them from now on.

For some reason it is generally thought that apricot picking is harder than cherry picking among the owners because of the heavier baskets we have to wear around our shoulders as we work. In my opinion, it is not at all heavy being that it weighs about 20 pounds or so fully loaded. It is also much more satisfying to pick apricots- baskets and palet bins (which weigh about 500 pounds when loaded) fill quickly, and it is easy to imagine myself literally picking money off the trees.

Anyway, the biggest plus is that everyone I work and live with is great company. We often joke that we are the most highly educated fruit picking crew in the world- people I work with have bachelors and masters degrees in Ocean Sciences, Environmental Management, Mechanical Engineering, Civil Engineering, Nursing, Marketing, Commercial Aviation, and so on and so on. This is probably the only place in the world where people with western first world university educations willingly work in the orchards- manly for the experience of it and to make some extra money while traveling. We regularly cook, eat, party, and go to the pubs together- not a bad way to live for a month really. (we also supplement our diets with fresh fruit and with rabbits and venison that we shoot in and around the orchard- then we cook it all up with the influences from everyone's separate cultures)

The hardest thing about all of this for me is being away from Jen and having no cheap way of communicating outside of text messages. Internet in town is only available at certain times on certain days, and there are only 6 computers or so for the entire fruit picking crowd to try to use. The connection is slow, and the price is also high at $6 an hour. It is also noisy, so skype is unfortunately not an option. I can’t wait till Jen and I are living in the same place again so that we can talk for free!

Anyway, I am in Dunedin now- I worked a half day today and then drove 2 and a half hours to get here. Jen and I accidently left some cloths at a hostel here a few weeks ago. Luckily the staff at Chalet Backpackers is excellent and kept our stuff for two weeks.

About one more month and I’m off to Thailand to meet up with Dave, Taylor, and then Jen- I can’t believe it. Time is flying by.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Mt. Cook and Work Prospects

I think I may have figured out how to have photos not crop- We'll see how this turns out. The photos here are as follows- Mt. Sefton, Aoroki, and Aoroki from where I camped. All photos here- http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2350385&l=2f5da&id=10223429





Two days ago I dropped Jen off at the airport in Christchurch and she headed back to Colorado. All in all we did have an excellent time together in so New Zealand, and it was a hard goodbye, but it will only be two months till we are together again in Phuket, Thailand.

After dropping Jen off I researched seasonal jobs at the library in Christchurch and then headed off towards Wanaka, determined to find work in Otago and not in Marlborough where most other seasonal jobs are. Although there are lots more jobs in the Marlborough area, it is much hotter up there, farther away from the big mountains, and to be honest I don't like it nearly as much.

I drove until finding an incredible camp spot right on Lake Pukaki. Although it was dark, I could see the far off glow of the snowfields and glaciers of Aoroki in the light from the nearly full moon. There was a special feeling to the place. Upon waking up I was greeted with one of the most picturesque views in my life, with the waters of Lake Pukaki (an almost impossible glacier blue color) reflecting the high peaks of Aoroki/Mount Cook National Park.


I spent the day yesterday hiking around the park, enjoying the views of the high peaks and glaciers. Although I've climbed mountains significanly higher than the mountains in the park, the mountains there were much bigger and more dramatic than I think I've ever seen before. It is really beyond words how awe inspiring it is.


Early in the day, I visited the Alpine Memorial, which is dedicated to the more than 200 people who lost their lives in the park. Family members and friends dedicate plaques to thier fallen loved ones detailing their lives. Many of the fallen climbers are under the age of 23. It was a sobering reminder of the power of the mountains and the price they can cost.


Last night I drove to Wanaka and found a camp spot on the lake. Two French couples in their mid to late 30s were camping there, and they invited me for a drink and dinner. Being that I had only eated a small dinner at that point, I was happy to oblige. We spent the night talking about life, traveling, international relations, and downing every available bottle of wine. Turns out the two guys are both French Chefs, and they cooked some incredible steak and lamb cutlets right ont he camp fire. It was a real treat, and I am very thankful for thier generosity.


Today I went back into Wanaka intent on finding work, which I did at a farm about 2 hours southeast in Roxburgh. I'm going to be trying my hand at fruit picking (apricots and cherries) and hopefully making some money before heading off to Thailand on February 20th. Perhaps on my days off I'll be able to return to Wanaka and Mt. Aspring for more hiking and possibly some climbing in the park. I also hope that I will be working with good people and actually getting a bit of a cultural exchange with Kiwis for once!


Thursday, January 8, 2009

Kepler Track, and then up the Coast

After my last update, Jen and I set out on the Kepler Track, a 40 mile backpacking trip renowned for being one of New Zealand's "Great Walks". The track starts off right in Te Anau, and heads off into the mountains of Fiordland, reaching above the tree line into the alpine within the first day of hiking.

The Kepler was fun and rewarding, even though it rained for 3 of the 4 days that we were hiking on it. We even had a night of sustained winds over 100kph, or about 60mph. On our second day it rained more than 3 inches. It was a bummer that the views from the ridgelines and mountain tops of the track had been replaced with low level clouds, driving rain, and extremely limited visibility. However, that is the natural state of the landscape- it rains there, a lot. (As much as 30 feet a year in some areas of Fiordland.)

Jen and I are used to extreme weather, so it really wasn't that hard on us. We got cold and wet, but still had a great time on the hike.

A few interesting things about the Kepler Track and the great walks-
-I think that the whole "Great Walks" thing is a bit of a marketing ploy. As much as Jen and I loved the Kepler, it was definitely no "Greater" than the area we were in inside Mt. Aspiring National Park. In fact, I think we may have liked our little known corner of Mt. Aspiring a little bit better than the Kepler Track. We joked that we could do the same thing in the US- to create of series of "Great Walks" to drive the hoards away from the really good stuff. For instance, have you heard about the incredible new "Great Walk" recently constructed in scenic Nebraska? You gotta go! No, don't go to Colorado or Wyoming, you should really check out Nebraska!
-There is no two ways about it- in the middle of the high season (the southern summer), the great walks are crowded. There are 3 huts on the Kepler track, all capable of housing at least 50 people. You have to stay in the huts for the most part- there is no camping alowed on most of the track. (By the way, track and trail are synonimous in NZ) We spent each night inside large huts similar to the well known 10th Mountain Division backcountry huts back home, but much larger. It is a bit annoying trying to sleep with as many as 25 people to a bunk room. There is a lot of snoring and noise to put up with.

Alright, I'll say it. For Jen and I, who are used to roping around in the backcountry with at most a tent for accomadation our our 8 bunk Guine Mountain Hut in the Indian Peaks back home that we have been to countless times and never with more people than close friends, the great walks aren't quite our style, but I think we were both really glad to do it. We did get a day of great views, a few rainbows, lots of waterfalls and we got to see a lush rainforest and lots of unique bird species. In fact, I'll say it was a "great" experience, just a little bit different.

After finishing up the Kepler track Jen and I headed south to Invercargil, the southernmost city in New Zealand and then continued up the coast. We stoped for a night in the Catlins and again in Dunedin and on the coast between Duniden and Christchurch. Even though we only spent one night there, I think Jen and I are both fans of Dunedin. I think it may be my favorite city in New Zealand.

Last night was our last night together until Jen comes out to meet me in Phuket, Thailand for my birthday in March. It was really hard having to say goodbye. It sucks that Jen had to go back to school, but I'm sure it will be an excellent reunion in Thailand!

As for me, I'm off to look for work in the vineyard industry. I haven't decided if I'll head back south towards Wanaka or instead head north towards Picton. I hope to have all that figured out for my next update!

More photos here!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2350385&l=2f5da&id=10223429